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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.